Bahamas Out Island News

Residents proudly declare the simple appeal of their island, wearing T-shirts that read: 'Eleuthera, it's not for everyone.'

wedding, special request. In between telling his celebrity bread tale though decidedly cagey about the recipe— Sands is among the Eleuthera ambassadors, hopeful of its new role as an unspoiled destination for nature buffs.

The native, who offers bread as a souvenir to travelers, remarks: “This is such a special place, no place like it:”

Travelers discovered Harbour Island, a north-island enclave offering a sophisticated. chic getaway a few years back. Its exquisite boutique hotels, luxury shopping and gourmet restaurants made it a destination among celebrities and wealthy tourists.

Now, mainland Eleuthera is becoming a hot spot, for considerably different reasons.

New Yorker Daniel Roberts, 37, has vacationed here five times since 2006 because he said he was, "taken with the absence of things to do."

It was first discovered in 1648 by a band of English pilgrims as the birthplace of the Bahamas, then again centuries later as a remote 1960s playground for Juan Trippe, founder of Pan American Airways, and his wealthy friends.

Some of the island's 8,000 residents proudly declare the simple appeal of Eleuthera, wearing T-shirts that read: "Eleuthera, it's not for everyone:' Just last year, the island was named one of the top five emerging destinations worth visiting by Travel + Leisure magazine.

The lure is consistent: an unhurried way and natural beauty. Spectacular cliffs and barrier reefs, turquoise waters and blushed beaches offer travelers a low-key getaway. Eleuthera, which means freedom in Greek, offers forgotten pineapple plantations, limestone caves, fruit stands and silos that dot the roadsides.

A week or a weekend here should include exploring the island by car (at 110 miles, its too long to stroll); lunch at Tippy's near Governor's Harbour (where the view is great and the cuisine is casual); a bonefishing excursion; quiet time at the Governor's Harbour town library (it has Internet access (or those itching to be connected); sunning on one of the 50 beaches and a tour of the glass-bottom bridge, a narrow stretch that connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Exuma Sound.

STAR APPEAL
Hip rocker Lenny Kravitz, so beguiled by the nothingness, now owns a no-frills home in Gregory Town, on the north end, and an Airstream trailer on a private beach. Here, he likes to shed the celebrity costumery and occasionally jam at a rugged joint near his home called Elvina's. Patti LaBelle also has a place here.

Now, after years of quiet, just enough development is coming to free Eleuthera of its Robinson Crusoe vibes but, islanders hope, without inviting too much traffic to ruin its splendor. All along the snake-shaped fishing island, luxury hotels and resorts arc planned. Last year, Continental added nonstop service from Miami and Fort Lauderdale. Next month, Delta will begin offering a nonstop from Atlanta to Eleuthera.

Arguably, the crown jewel of the renaissance is French leave, a spectacular complex that will be built atop the remains of Club Med. Developers there promise the 265-acre property stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the Bight of Eleuthera, designed to respect the natural beauty of the island. The $200 million project includes 135 condo and villas, spa, boutiques. marina and restaurants.

Starwood Hotel is building a sprawling, eco-friendly complex called Cotton Bay Villas on the south end that includes luxury condos, villas and a 73-room hotel. It is expected to open by year's end.

The Cove, near Gregory Town, has recently been refashioned into stylish resort and further south, Pineapple Fields. offers tropical chic condo/hotel rooms.

HARBOUR ISLAND
Those looking for slightly more should head to Harbour Island, the cosmopolitan quarter of Eleuthera, sitting off its northern coast.

It is just a pleasant, W-minute ferry ride away aboard a speed boat named Grand Papa. Otis Redding’s Sittin’ on the Dock of the Bay plays while the driver extols the virtues of the tiny, three-mile island. Though he doesn't say it, the place has been hailed as the next St. Barts for its cosmopolitan way and pedigreed guests.

Harbour Island is wonderfully appointed with resort and boutique hotels (many awash in Miami sensibilities) and an impressive list of celebrities residents and visitors. Count supermodel Elle McPherson and designer Diane von Furstenberg among its residents. Sarah Ferguson, Duchess of York, was there for the holidays, as was Robert DeNiro.

The island is essentially a grid of quaint clapboard homes with quirky names such as Beside the Point, Rose Bud and Dollhouse. If Brilanders, as they like to call themselves, had their way, the pesky cars would be banned, leaving the island to sputtering golf carts, walkers and a bucolic number of roosters.

Since hotelier J. Allen Malcolm "discovered" Harbour Island and opened Pink Sands in the 1950s, it has drawn flocks of jet setters who spend lazy days escaping.

The resort was nearly destroyed in Hurricane Andrew, then purchased by former Island Records owner Chris Blackwell, who refashioned it into a Moroccan retreat. The vaunted resort is due to change hands soon, bought by the owners of another hotel, and will be renovated over the summer.

Up the street towards the bay, New Yorker David Hicks shops at The Sugar Mill Trading Company on Bay Street. owned by India Hicks, the granddaughter of Lord Louis Mountbatten. David Hicks (no relation to India) talks about his frantic schedule. But every other year or so, he makes the trek here - a direct flight from New York to Miami, then a flight to North Eleuthera, then a $5 taxi to the dock. then a $5 speed boat to Harbour Island.

Just over five hours and Hicks. 37, is away from the rat race.

"This is the perfect place to rest," says Hicks, a tinancial consultant. "There's stuff to do, but most importantly, you can actually breathe."